No creative director, no problem—Chanel’s FW25 show proves the Maison runs on magic
On the last day of the Paris Fashion Week, Chanel unveiled its Fall-Winter 2025 collection—a testament to the Maison's enduring legacy, even in the interlude after the departure of longtime Karl Lagerfeld collaborator Virginie Viard last June and before Matthieu Blazy's much-anticipated arrival. The absence of a reigning creative director, however, did not cast a shadow; instead, it illuminated the prowess of Chanel's atelier, orchestrating a symphony of style that resonated with both heritage and modernity.
At the recent showcase, a monumental black ribbon, which looked like silk but was made of steel, soared up towards the glass and steel dome of the Grand Palais, where countless tales of fashion’s most illustrious moments have unfolded over time, setting the stage perfectly for a collection that played masterfully with proportions and textures.
Iconic tweed jackets transformed into flowing coat dresses, while oversized poplin shirts streamed gracefully to the ankles and chunky knits took over. A well-tailored pink ensemble, layered with a sheer overlay and a long transparent skirt to match, epitomised Maison's flair for juxtaposition—classic yet contemporary, bold yet understated.
Critics and fashion savants alike lauded the collection's ingenuity, with some observing a harmonious blend of diverse design elements that coalesced into a unified narrative. “There was a beautiful lightness about the collection created by the in-house design studio at Chanel. I especially loved how the sheer overlays moved beautifully on the models bodies as they sashayed down the runway with a gracious ease. I am also very excited for Matthieu Blazy’s new direction next season, ” says Nikhil Mansata, a fashion stylist and creative director based in London.
Ace stylist Akshay Tyagi told Harper’s Bazaar, “Chanel show sans creative director is a testament to the legacy of the preservation process of the fashion house in the old school way. With a rich archive, the creative efforts from the atelier are a clear indication of the dedication of the team that is behind making a vision come to life. It was a classic homage to the legacy of Coco and Karl!”
For others still, the presence of a creative director to lead a legacy House like Chanel is perhaps more meritorious than mandatory. Top stylist Isha Bhansali says, “Most times, when a heritage house like Chanel does a show with no creative director, it still does really well. Honestly, it’s no surprise, because by now, everyone working for the House, the base of their mood board is the aesthetic of the brand, the heritage value the brand brings to the table, the recall value, the identity of the brand, and the nature of the brand. For example, Chanel being Chanel, you have to have tweed. It’s part of its DNA. So even when they have a new creative director, it’s an added voice but it’s not the entire voice. A brand like that can always hold together without a creative director for a show, not just for one season, I think, but even a couple of them because it has that foundation which makes it almost invincible.”
And rightly so. A case in point is how accessories took centre stage with audacious charm, throwing it back to the times of Coco with a contemporary twist. Bags resembling oversized pearl necklaces and massive pearl rings introduced a playful opulence, while miniature handbags added a whimsical touch. Footwear innovations, such as pearl-heeled boots and sock boots, and hats were everywhere, showcasing Chanel's commitment to marrying tradition with avant-garde design.
The front row glittered with a constellation of stars, each embodying the Maison's timeless elegance. Dakota Fanning, Camila Cabello, and Naomi Campbell graced the event, their presence a testament to Chanel's cross-generational appeal. Grammy winner Tyla, dazzling in a Barbie pink tweed ensemble, encapsulated the youthful exuberance that permeated the collection while AP Dhillon represented India in style.
As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, Chanel's FW25 showcase stood as a beacon of the atelier’s staying power. Even without a singular creative helm, Chanel proved its enduring brilliance, crafting a collection that not only honoured its storied legacy but also paved the way for a future that’s sure to sing.
Lead image: Getty Images